7.13.2009

TRIP TO MOUNT KENYA
July 11-13, 2009

Arrive and rent out a great banda right outside the park entrance.








Get up early








Check in
And snap the pre-hike photo
We start out as a group of seven, and soon start to break all the hiking rules. After we hike a bit and get some closer views of the peak.


One person turns back early, soon followed by another.
Now we're down to five, and then the clouds roll in, and roll in thick.

We wander into a big valley with an old camping hut.


And outhouse!








Our group of five segregates into two groups, one with the extra water and map, and the other with, er, their wits(?). As we leave the valley, the unmarked trail gets harder to discern, and soon the rock walls and fog permanently separate the two groups. Attempts to find the trail and yawp into the wild prove fruitless, and Stefan and myself (the lost) decide the best bet is to return the big valley, as we know we find the trail back from there.
We arrange some rocks outside the ole shelter and leave a note in case anyone from the other groups comes back searching for us, and make our way back the way we came.



























7.10.2009

Days spent working on manuscript, planning field protocols with researchers, and doing a bit of preliminary field collections. Get out in the field a bit; one day help out setting some rodent traps. Spot a gathering of vultures, but can’t find any carcass. Few heavy clouds in sky that brighten up the sunset. Get a bit of rain, not enough to green up anything, but enough to make super-clay road a slippery mess. Slid around a bit, but 4WD got us out of the ditch just fine.
Play with a li’l bat (Ivan Batski) that a research rescued from a swarm of ant when it fell out of its nest.

Word one day about a dead elephant not too far from station. Story that they found an AK47 bullet in it; may have been poaching attempt in the north. Take an impromptu night drive with some folks, takes a bit to relocate the carcass in the dark, but sounds of hyenas and smell of decomposition aid our efforts. Can hear sounds, familiar to me as dogs chewing on rawhides, emanating from the general direction of the fallen ele. We sweep the area with the spotlight, and see at least a dozen sets of hyena eyes staring back at us. We turn off the engine and listen to their gnawing and squealing; one hyena unleashes a full blown “laugh,” which sounds like a primitive, hysterical yawp, and echoes through the valley. We drive right next to the ele, and eventually one brave hyena returns, and in the moonlight we watch it lay down and grind down the ele’s knee bone.

7.04.2009

Sleeping patterns seem to be a bit off. Work on some manuscript revisions in the morning and then it’s off for a little fourth of July celebration a the river camp (= Mpala’s alternative research base, consisting of a series of tents on platforms, and a kitchen and dining area). Kitchen staff goes all out on a sort of Mediterranean-theme cuisine. The Centre researchers challenge the River Camp researchers to a game of kickball, with the vast majorty of the teams populated by the Kenya field assistants, who immediately embrace the idea to kick the crap out the ball. Base running rules and ball catching skills take a bit longer to master. We return after dinner to enjoy their huge fire pit. One research has brought his fancy speakers (used professionally to observe how gazelles differentially respond to predator playbacks) and a decent dance party breaks out under the stars.

7.03.2009

Sleep in until 13:00, get a mid-day check in by a friend to make sure I’m still alive. After breakfastlunch, catch up on a few research updates and do a little work to attempt to summarize my findings to date.

7.02.2009

The domestic flight to Nanyuki allows max 15 kg of checked luggage, but doesn’t weigh your carry on, so I transfer my paper and heavy equipment to my backpack, which now feels like I’m transporting bowling balls. Get to little domestic airport early, which despite its somewhat ramshackle outward appearance, has a great little café upstairs. You can watch the little planes come and go with enjoying a decent cup of coffee. Land in Nanyuki without a problem, and am happy to wait for my ride, as it means hanging out at even more beautiful airport café. Soon after, the familiar Prado rolls in, and out roll some familiar and new faces. So nice to be able to reconnect folks I haven’t seen for almost a year! We enjoy some eats at the café, and head into town to run some errands. Arrive at the station, and am a little sad to see I don’t have the same banda (lucky #7) that I’ve had the two previous visits. I’m off in the small grouping of newer bandas on the north end of the station. I get a larger banda, designed to house 4 people, to myself. I’m also next door to a good friend. I unpack and catch up with folks at sundowners on lookout rock. I catch up with the wild dog researcher, who know has her own house at Mpala, and get a dinner invitation. I hear all about her recent wedding, and we excitedly share details of our upcoming adventures: her new job on a new ranch followed by plans to road-trip it through Europe, and my new gig on Charismas Island. I get to catch up with Talek the ridgeback, who’s now a hefty boy, and learn he’s recently been barking at night, kept up by the hyenas on the veranda, chewing his bone on his bed. It’s great to be back.

6.30.2009

KENYA III
Travel from Burlington to Newark to Paris to Nairobi. In Newark, faulty air-conditioning unit on aircraft keeps on grounded for over two hours, meaning connecting in Paris will likely be tight. Complete crapshow in Paris: no signs, no indication of flight status or corresponding terminal. As look for *anybody* to ask, overhear woman and man ask airport personnel for the next connecting flight to Nairobi. We are directed down dirty stairs to a transfer station in shambles. We need to ask three people before anyone can confirm we are in the right spot. Wait 15 minutes for bus to drive us across the tarmac to the terminal. As enter building, see small, dark area with people packed in snaking, stagnant, endless lines, waiting to go through security. Nobody in our recently banded group had their boarding pass issued at their origin, and we’re told we need to wait in another, endless snaking line, to get them. We are now officially suppose to be on board. The woman flags down an airline attendant, and we somehow get service. She grabs all our itineraries and passports, issues us the boarding cards, and checks our luggage. Feeling triumphant, we wait in the security line, and discover a majority of folks in line are also headed to Nairobi. We wonder and hope they’ll hold the plane for so many tardy passengers. After moving 5 feet in 10 minutes, a flight attendant queries the security line how many people are headed to Nairobi, and up go a wave of hands. I get to chatting with the gentleman in the group, and he’s originally from Nairobi but moving the State a couple decades ago. He’s headed back for a month for a family reunion. We kill time with our co-waylaid passengers by wondering if there could possibly be a more inefficient system. About 45 mintues later, we make it through security, and it’s like a wonderland on the other side: big open space, lots of sunshine pouring through the huge glass windows. We get on board, an hour after the scheduled departure time, and find we’re all sitting together, last row before the bathrooms, three seats to the row. I get the middle seat. Upon looking for my seatbelt, I can’t locate it. I dig up the cushion, find the attachment screws, but no belt. Fearing eviction and lack of extra seats, I put my pillow over my lap and hope the attendant doesn’t notice. The pilot announces there are still 35 passengers waiting to get through security, and we’ll likely be delayed another hour or so. I try to look on the bright side: that’s just more time my luggage has to find its way to the belly of this plane. Flight itself is fine, can’t seem to sleep, so numb my exhausted brain with crappy movies, and soon enough find we’re landing in Nairobi. Nice to have some sense of what to expect. Fill out a swine flu form, make through customs without a problem, and am delighted to find my luggage cruising around the conveyor belt. See my name on the taxi driver’s placard (I don’t think I’ll ever stop being amused by that) and finally arrive at the hotel. It feels good to be back.

8.28.2008

MT. KENYA

Get a ride into Nanyuki, meet up with our guides, buy some food, and take the drive to the Sirimon Gate of Mt. Kenya.

Start the 6 mile hike through the forest, up an old access road to the Camp.





Arrive at Old Moses Camp right as the clouds roll in

And it start to rain

And then hail

And then, as soon as the weather came, it clears up

Porters make up warm drinks, and delicious dinner
(odd to eat this well this remotely)

Get an early start the next day, as the sun begins to hit the mountain


Hike into the moorlands


As close to the peak as we'll get today...

Spy some sweet looking ants on the hike down

Hanging with the porter and guide, waiting for a ride back to town.

Thanks, guys!